Got a call stating that the air-conditioner was just not doing its job. It remained about 80* while the outdoor temps were about 90*. I arrived to find ac working. Removed cover and saw a almost beer can cold suction line. Pressures were low pressure 75.9 high pressure 275.9. Noticed that the condenser was dirty so I removed cover on back side of the unit so I could wash it down and clean it good. I found that the 14″ supply line had separated itself from the unit. I’d say 50% loss in efficiency. After some UN-planned for work the supply line is now in good order. I cleaned the coils good and now look at the pressure readings. The low pressure side was showing about the same as above. I opted to add refrigerant. I added 2 lbs r-22 and the pressures seemed to rise on both low and high side. I stopped and removed the added refrigerant and additional approximate .34 lbs. This brought the suction down to about 70.6 psi and the high pressure to 251.6 psi. The beer can look on the compressor low side was close. Original readings were LP75.9, HP275.9,EV44.8, CO 124.7, T1 49.5,T2 176.5, SH4.1, ^T 126.9. My final readings were T1 60.4, T2 173.3, SH 19.8 ^T 112.5

EV42.0 CO117.1 LP70.6 HP117.1

The indoor return temp was 72* and the supply was 55* , 17* difference.

Using a Testo 500 learning as I go.

One thing was the condition of the unit before I could really try to diagnose the problem was the leaves and debris inside the unit. The condenser was really dirty.

There was enough debris to slow the water flow out of the unit.

The coil was very dirty as you can tell. It is important to clean as well as possible before making a decision on the refrigerant levels.

In the process of cleaning it was discovered that the 14″ supply line was only partially attached that led to at least a 50% reduction in efficiency.

After some work both sides were reattached and in good condition when we finished.

This looks really dirty and was removed very easily with a water hose, without damage to the fins.

Another thing I discovered was that the installers had covered the entire back side of this condenser with the cowling to the wall. That would make a big difference in the efficiency of this unit. I opted to go ahead and lower the cover to allow complete use of the condenser.

This shows some of the repair. After using the duct tape to hold in position we used some screws to anchor so the same problem would not repeat itself. Pretty satisfied with the project.

This is where I jotted down the notes as I went. Being relatively new in this field I try to document and discover my errors as I go. This is by no means suggesting that this is the right and only way to do things. I am still learning and will try to pass on my experiences as I go. “As always take what you can use and leave the rest.”

Homeowner calls and explains that there is no heat, the air was working fine until we switched over to heat when it got a little cool this fall. We collect as much information as the homeowner can provide before we begin our repairs.

1. We had problems recently and the Service Company installed a new Thermostat.

2. Heat has never been used since then.

3. When we called for heat, nothing works at all now.

Our actions:

The first thing we noticed was exposed wiring at the air conditioner thermostat wires. These were addressed one of the very first things. The weather had deteriorated the insulation on these wires and it was very possible that they had contact with each other so we clipped each wire and eliminated problem areas.

Then after checking the proper voltage in, we began to look at all components and wiring. Looking for any obvious burnt or broken wires or any thing at all that does not look right.

In this case we looked at the wiring on the thermostat one of the very first things. All wires were color coded and seemed to be in the right place and we began to dig deeper.

In the air handler we as stated above inspected for obvious problems. The 24 volt output fuse was hidden under some wiring and it was open or should I say blown. Okay so our immediate thinking is all we have to do is replace this 50 cent fuse and all will work fine. Well you guessed it. NOT

This was only the beginning of a three day affair. It was discovered that between the air handler and the thermostat there was a clump of wires that had been connected with wire nuts. So we clipped away and checked for shorts back to the thermostat. The wiring seemed fine so we rewired properly and proceeded.  Back to the air handler and we disconnected the second thermostat wire out to the air conditioner to isolate the heat form the air. At this point we would check each leg of wire and all components and add new fuse and call for heat and these fuses are beginning to add up. Of course this is not the right way to do this testing, however we wanted to protect the 24 volt transformer and this was the only way we could insure protection here.

Long story short we discovered a weak contactor that was replaced with a spare we had on the truck. It was also discovered that there was a hairline crack in on leg of the bladed contact point on one heat strip. Of course the thinking was that this might be a possibility of why this fuse is still blowing. After cleaning up and soldering the hairline crack, we called for heat again. POP the fuse blows again. This is near a giving up point. Then it came to me that well there is no reversing valve on the air conditioner so I’ll just eliminate the orange wire on the thermostat and the unit as it is not necessary. Pop yes you guessed it.

I hate to be whipped in situations like this. I called in an Electrical Teacher form a local Technical College. After he went thru a couple hours of the same testing that I had already been thru, it was determined that we had a bad thermostat. Remember we had info that there was a new thermostat installed recently. So with this info we went to supply house and picked up new thermostat and back to make the final repair.

Installed new thermostat and called for heat and “POP”.

Now this is personal. Rechecked the thermostat wire a second time. clipped and basically looking for a needle in a haystack. Isolated the heat from the air again and this time we installed the thermostat and called for heat. Checked the wiring at the air handler with meter and was sure that what we would or should find is three wires that were activated with thermostat.

1. red 24 volt supply

2. green/fan

3. white/heat

This should be all it takes to make the air handler operate in heat.

Well the blue wire was also called by thermostat and this is where all the problem with the fuse wound up being. Because blue is the common on this unit in the low voltage supply it was overlooked as necessary at the thermostat.

We removed the blue wire from thermostat, hooked everything back up and called for heat and after four days of troubleshooting the thermostat and heat got along together.

Still a small problem now with the air conditioner, fan works but compressor does not. The blue wire was necessary to the unit outside to complete the 24 volt low voltage circuit that pulls in the contactor.

So after much discovery and relentless determination to get this family some heat we have this system operational and some much needed maintenance that was taken care of in the discovery of the fault.

Also it should be noted that there was inadequate wiring diagrams onsite. Even the internet was very vague and we were unable to find the problem with diagrams that we had found.

Problem: 24 volt low voltage output fuse keeps blowing.

Solution: Removed blue wire from thermostat.

Which One Is Which?

Call comes in from Joe and after the brief greeting Joe ask if you would like to take a look at an HVAC unit that is causing problems on a Commercial building with twenty units. Yes Sir I’d be glad to take a look. Exchange of information includes the following:

1:Suite G Air Unit just quit working Friday and address to building.

It is your first visit to this location and you might think it would be real easy to find the problem to the Suite G unit. That’s the easy part. The problem is where is Suite G’s unit at and where is the main power source deep within the building. The owner probably knows this information, however may not be accessible when needed, so this is now the Repair Technicians problem.  So getting to know the individual system is just the beginning.

Keep in mind there are twenty units not just one involved. Each unit most likely has a disconnect real close to it’s proximity. But where is this power source from? The main power source seems to be a problem as well as something going on in the unit that has caused the total failure.

This actually happened to me recently and it is probably something that every HVAC company has experienced. So it is important for the Owners and the service companies alike to have some sort of sketch, diagram, or means of identifying each of the units on-site.

In this case I will after completion of all pertinent information on diagram, have several copies made and laminated. Distribute for possible posting at a location for the HVAC Company to be directed to in the event of a problem with any unit. This will allow the Technician to grab a waterproof copy and go about his work.

With todays technology this simple diagram can be used in many formats that can easily be included into a mobile app, tablet for viewing. For more advanced in depth information about each unit, one could use a CAD program to create many layers of information to include photos, text files, the list goes on.

Simple works.

So a simple hand drawn diagram will help in the future with the HVAC units at this location. After a couple months and many other similar situations, it is so easy to forget where a particular power source is for say Suite G. It saves time which equals $$$ if your new HVAC Repair Service can go directly to the Unit and it’s pertaining sources. So take the time and have an informational diagram for your HVAC Service Company. It will cost in the front end to do this, however you can see the savings from every visit in the future from another company or technician that is not familiar with your site.

Numbers were added to each unit to correspond with each Suite. With this simple little fix, it is now possible for a Technician that has never been onsite to pick up a copy and quickly make it to his destination without to much input from the owners.

Refrigeration is Refrigeration. Right?

Which One Is Which

Well yes and no. Not all systems are the same. On a call that has several commercial units on the roof of the building and several units @ ground level. What can I do to familiarize myself with each system, so I will be able to address a particular unit and diagnose a problem without re-inventing the wheel every call?

A new client and 15 units. Client calls and says I’m having trouble with Suite G. It just quit working. You make it out to the site and it is very difficult to determine which one is suite G. It’s possible that you begin to diagnose the wrong unit. How embarrassing is that?

Well kinda like never trusting someone else to turn off the current. “Hey Joe, did you turn the current off.”  Yes says Joe. You insert screwdriver and a arc from Hell melts the tip of your screwdriver into oblivion. You yell, “Joe I thought you turned it off.” Joe says “Oh I thought you said turn it on.” Well you get the point.

1.Find out as much about the problems or symptoms from whomever can provide you info on when it quit, what happened, how did it act, did it show previous symptoms that led up to it’s total failure. It will also be helpful in most case’s to have them show you all thermostats, electrical boxes, units, access points. etc.

Now we are ready to start. With all info gathered I figure that I have a good idea of what I need to do next. So the process of elimination starts. I soak up all info I can and then don’t put 100% trust in what info I have is right.  Now it’s up to in the field experience as to what I do next. Or maybe even in-experience.

After several hours and checking all the maybes and what ifs, I have a general idea of this particular system. Now I know which of the very large electrical boxes deep within the building and several hundred feet from the H.V.A.C. unit has the faulty 30  amp cartridge fuses that are being blown with every throw of the switch.

After diagnosing the problem and fixing the unit, it is only now, that if I had to do the same thing again next week with the same unit would I know right where to go and what to do.

Familiarize Yourself With The System.

So that is why I say every system is different. The homeowner or client sometimes may not understand that a ten minute fix may take several hours to  diagnose and perform. Many of the problems are the same but location of electrical panels, faulty wiring, bad components, neglect, and shoddy work from former repairmen often take awhile to diagnose.

2. Take some time with today’s technology and itemize the H.V.A.C . units on a large building like I have mentioned. Label them so it is easy to get to the right unit, easily. A-1, A-2, A-3, Suite B, Suite 4, Suite C, again you get the idea. A simple .txt file with some photos in a directory named Client#1 is simple and will really help next time you have to go out to that particular site. A brief notation of what was done on that unit in Suite G may simplify and save you a lot of time which equals money. The more $$$ you save your clients the more satisfied clients you will have.

This is simple experience that may help you in your H.V.A.C. needs as a customer or as a Technician.

Stay Safe, It’s Up To You. Not Hey Joe

Drair

In order to test a cartridge fuse, you will need a multi-meter. With the tester on turn the dial to ohms on a lower setting. Place one end of lead on either side of the fuse. If the fuse is good, the tester should have little or no resistance showing on the meter. I tested several today and they all measured 0.5 ohms. If the fuse is bad, you’ll see an infinite reading, meaning the fuse link is blown.

Everybody knows that the return air filter is usually centrally located and easy to find. In a upper scale home I visited recently we discovered that there was what seemed like a air return in each room. After some searching the homeowner wanted to look under the house. After visually looking for the return air vent we discovered that we were looking in the wrong place. Upon looking a second time at the exterior air unit, we took the side cover off the unit and there it was.

A 20″ x 25″ x 4″  MERV 11 filter.

What better way to learn than hands on. The homeowner seemed surprised when he found out that he could get on-line @ amazon.com and buy the filters in a six pack with free shipping. This particular situation needed two different size filters. Both the MERV # 11 quality. So low and behold the Often Bought Together option @ amazon was exactly what he needed. So with this little info the homeowner stated that he would order the filters and if he needed any help installing them he would give me a call.

So many times in todays society the big companies come out and make something so simple and necessary seem so very big and impossible. Of course this means Dollars.

You too can do a lot to maintain your heat and air. But this one little thing is very important.

Change the filters regularly.

http://www.amazon.com/20x25x4-Merv-Furnace-Filter-Pack/dp/B0057BCUQY

For more on MERV specs refer to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minimum_efficiency_reporting_value

Most household HVAC units contain anywhere from about 2 lbs of refrigerant in a 1 1/2 ton unit, to 6 lbs in a 3.5 ton unit.

There are many different prices that HVAC Companies charge for the refrigerant. Most homeowners are not to happy when they have to pay the high prices it takes to get the proper refrigerant to their door. Upon searching online it was not uncommon to find companies that charge $100.00 a pound for R-22.

Below are a few comment’s I found while surfing the internet.

1: I sell R22 for $50 per lb. I figure that covers all the overhead it took to get the stuff to your door.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130412135514AA1Vzz0

2: That comes with a caveat, though. For example, one Long Island-area company representative I spoke with said he charges $35 per pound, but that does not include the cost of a service charge. Most companies seem to charge about $115 for the labor portion. So, if your contractor charged you $100 to replenish one pound and that included the labor, then it sounds like you got a pretty good deal.

http://articles.courant.com/2013-05-24/news/hc-ls-freon-20130518_1_r-410a-conditioning-refrigerant

3: “When I got home, I got … a bill for $743.06,” he said. “I was pretty shocked to see that.”

The R-22 freon alone cost $664, or $166 a pound.

http://www.wral.com/older-ac-systems-can-drain-your-wallet-as-refrigerant-prices-soar-/12648930/

4:  Why is the price of AC Freon so high?

The price of A/C Freon, or R-22, has skyrocketed recently due to a lack of supply caused by the EPA phasing out production of freon. In an effort to reduce greenhouse gases, the EPA is phasing out A/C Freon in stages.

Production/import was cut by 45 percent in 2012 and will be cut additional 30 percent in 2013. The plan calls for a total reduction of 90 percent by 2015, and production/import will be banned entirely in the U.S. by 2020.

What used to cost an A/C repair man around $60 per jug is now over $500! Unfortunately, that increase must be passed on to the consumer.

http://www.palmbeachpost.com/news/lifestyles/home-garden/ask-air-conditioning-expert-epa-restrictions-cause/nXcT8/

5: As an ac contractor for over forty years i can tell you this, the price of r-22 has gone up over the past 12 months. a reasonable price for one pound of r-22 should be between forty and fifty dollars. keep in mind this price is for the r-22 only. most contractors charge a service fee plus freon. our company charges eighty dollars to check and clean your ac, then add freon.freon cannot be checked and added properly without knowing the ac is clean and operating properly. so be sure to use a qualified ac contractor and not a freon jockey as we call them in our industry

http://www.angieslist.com/articles/what-fair-price-r-22.htm

The air conditioner contactor is a switch located in the outdoor part of the air conditioning unit. The “switch” consists of a control coil, a metal plunger, and one or more sets of electrical contacts. the switch turns the unit on and off when energized by the thermostat settings indoors.

This is a minor repair and can usually be diagnosed quickly. It is nort recomended for the average homeowner to attempt this procedure. There is a danger of high voltage and wiring wrong could produce many other problems.

Below find a youtube video with a very good explanation of the problems that you might have with a HVAC contactor.

Contactors vary from $12.00 to $50.00

http://youtu.be/1XI0Z7LBheI

Did you know?

Keep vegetation at least 2 feet away from outdoor units on each side and above. Aim grass clippings away from the unit when mowing the lawn. During the fall, keep the fan grill free of leaves.

If possible, shade the outdoor compressor unit. Air in shaded space is typically 5 to 6 degrees cooler than the surrounding air. Proper shading can be up to 10 percent more efficient over a cooling season.

Raise the temperature settings. Each degree of temperature can represent up to 9 percent savings in cooling costs.

Probably the most important step that can be done by a homeowner is to clean or replace the air filter every month.

Install an attic fan to help ventilate some of the hot air out of the attic.
Attics can reach temperatures of 140-150 degrees and this build of warm air can make the upstairs of a home warmer than it needs to be. This makes the air conditioner work harder to do its job. It costs you more to cool your home and the life of the system can be decreased.